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Jackets

Without a doubt, my favourite thing about pre-1960s vintage menswear is the huge variety of weaves from pretty boring to batshit crazy. While not in the upper end of the crazy, the diamond weave is amongst those strident weaves that have fallen from general favour. This late 1930s/early 40s jacket is made of very large diamond weave stuff in cream and brown “oatmeal” colours. Super size the images to get a clear view of the cloth … The fabric is super soft, almost feels like cashmere. Love the “tulip” breast pocket!

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This early work jacket is made of extremely rugged and heavy deep blue wool fabric. Rough as guts, this stuff.The small lapels are both finishe with a buttonhole. I’ve seen this type of jacket marketed as being workwear for the Railways, often featuring British rail buttons. This one, however, has the kind of standard buttons you’d find on a cheap suit of the day. The remains of the paper label are very much of the size and type you’d find on pretty much all British workwear back in the day …

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This jacket is made of the most amazing soft herringbone fabric in brown tones with white and orange stripes breaking up the herringbone. The jacket probably dates to the early 1930s. The shape of the lightly padded shoulders and only very slightly displaced shoulder seams are indicative. There are two small pretty unremarkable cutters labels – one inside the interior breast pocket, the other in one of the hip pockets. Seems like this was probably quite a cheap/utility type jacket. At some point it made its way into the BBC Bristol wardrobe. The buttons are beautiful!

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There are some things in the vintage world that you don’t see very often. British belted back sports jackets are one of those things. As rare as it’s possible to imagine. This one is really lovely. A lightweight cotton twill jacket in cream, with a belted back and four pleats secured by the belt. The 3 large patch pockets are very utilitarian. Is it correct to call this a sports jacket, or is it more of a work jacket? I can see someone rambling in this! It was probably made by the British company “Anglocrat”, based on the label which is very similar to the label in a pair of vintage Anglocrat cotton shorts I own. Dating is difficult. The lack of a side body in the jacket would suggest an earlier rather than later date. The shank buttons are fantastic on this jacket! In size 40, this is a really great find, and will be sent to eBay in the next couple of days …

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The label in the jacket:

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And here’s the label from the anglocrat shorts

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I found this jacket in Paris a few years ago, but I’m pretty sure from the lapel style, interior pocket treatment (strip of fabric at pocket mouth extending from front facings) and tailor’s name, that it’s a German jacket from the 1930s or 1940s. I’m also pretty sure it’s been shortened, but when I took apart the bottom seam I couldn’t find evidence of shortening so it’s been done professionally.

In all a very nice orphaned suit jacket that’s easily useable as a sportscoat paired with light coloured trousers that pick up on the shade of the chalk stripe in the jacket.

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As if 1920s gear wasn’t rare enough, 1920s Colonial wear is rare to the nth degree, especially in good condition. This jacket is fashioned out of white twill wool, and lined in white silesia. It was made in Colombo, Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) 1923 (see label in last pic) for one H. V. Stroud, by the major department store “Cargill’s”. It has a typically early 1920s silhouette and style with 2 closely set and rather high positioned buttons, and high gorge “fishmouth” peak lapels. The shoulders are unpadded, the only shaping being provided by some cotton sleevehead wadding. The arms are cut to an older pattern, the shoulder seams are extremely backward sloping as is typical of older tailoring, and the front facings extend into the upper chest & shoulder area, another feature that appears increasingly more as you go back in time.

This perfectly wearable jacket will form a solid part of my summer wardrobe.

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This is probably my favourite sportscoat for a brisk spring or autumn day. Light but warm, the combination of cream/beige and robust windowpane tweed is fantastic. It was probably made in the 1930s, and probably for a teenager. Lucky me to be a size 35S, to be able to find this stuff! It’s unlined but for a little bit of acetate/celanese in the upper back, and there are no maker’s labels. The buttons on this are great. I’m not sure what they’re made of … some form of early plastic, probably. Certainly not corozo.

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