This is an odd fish. This jacket is very much 1930s British in style and construction, and was made in far off Fiji, for Walter Horne & Co. of Suva. The fabric is a fantastically soft flannel with 2 different variants on the chalk stripe. I found the notice of liquidation of this company posted in the November 25th 1933 edition of the Brisbane Courier Mail (see last image, below), so presumably that gives a latest possible date for the jacket. Through the Fedora Lounge I was in touch with a descendant of the family, who told me that there was a major family dispute in the 1930s, and going by the wording of the liquidation notice, that would seem to tally. Without an exact date, I am settled on a date of “early 1930s” on this jacket. This jacket has a most wonderful label … One of the best I’ve seen, I think.
This jacket is probably about as “standard” a wartime jacket as you can get. A classic business jacket, 3 button single breasted with peaked lapels, you can see a banker trundling around the blitzed out streets with striped trousers and bowler hat, desperately trying to pretend to everyone that he isn’t terrified. It’s a lovely jacket from a solid mid-range maker (Horne Brothers), with the CC41 label, and just one little hole on the side seam. I really like the Horne Bros logo on the interior label. very slick design.
How I wish this set still had the trousers! It would have made a wonderful suit. As it is, it’s just the DB jacket and waistcoat, but in the most fantastic chocolate brown birdseye-ish fabric. It probably dates to the latter half of the 1940s, judging by the exaggerated shoulders, and is archetypal classic British tailoring.
What a wonderful colour for a boating blazer. A little faded across the shoulders but it fits!
I’m not sure whether Angels made this jacket, or whether they acquired it at some point later. It ended up in the costume collection of a small theatre somewhere in the sticks, from whom I bought it. The old-style date label stitched right onto the pink silk lining says: 20/11/24. There are a bunch of names scrawled onto the liner, and another label that looks like a costume department code (the BBC costume dept. use a very similar type of label). I hope the close-up of the button gives an indication of how fluffy this fabric is. Like a soft blanket cloth, the same type that original “Oxford Bags” were apparently made of.
I finished this jacket a while ago, and now the weather’s getting a bit warmer, it’s seeing more wear. It’s made of awesome vintage mid-weight check wool, with vintage British military buttons and modern buckles. The jacket is waist length, and features waist adjustor buckles and buckles at the arm ends for tightening when necessary. The chin strap is functional. The rear features a scalloped yoke and central box pleat for ease of movement when stretching/working. Entirely hand made. This was my first attempt at making this type of pocket and while not a complete disaster, they are a bit dodgy.
A deadstock British khaki twill boiler suit, probably from the 40s or 50s. Maybe earlier, maybe later. Classic military style ring-backed resin buttons, and standard military style fly buttons. A very strange internal rear cinch belt with “British Make” prong buckle. It was made by Practical Uniforms of London SW12 … Fantastic! Far too big for me, sadly. The Wabash Stripe pocketbags are a nice touch, IMO, along with the fancy decorative stitching at the pocket openings.