Necktie Anatomy Part 1 – 4-Fold Construction

There are endless ways to form a piece of fabric into a necktie, but a few have come to dominate, mainly for reasons of durability and ease of manufacture. The first method I’ll analyse is perhaps the simplest. Only a few companies seem to have used this patented method, but it’s relatively elegant and certainly time-saving in the manufacture. I had to take a late 1930s tie apart to try to clean it, so I decided to take some photos to show the construction. (click on images for larger, higher resolution pics)

A Beau Brummell brand tie made of the famous Palm Beach cloth. Here’s the tie.

The label describes its 4-Fold construction:

But what does that mean? Well, here’s the tie unstitched and laid out flat. You can see that, unlike most ties of the era, it’s a single piece of fabric with no seams.

One very odd feature, pertaining to the naming of the patent, is the fact that there are in fact only 3 folds to construct the tie (the folds are pointed out here by arrows). The bottom of the fabric is curling over, but there’s no fold there – it just hasn’t been pressed yet.

We’re looking here (below) at the thin end of the tie. I’ve pressed the two outer folds towards the “wrong” side of the fabric, to the inside of the tie. The third fold is right at the space between my fingers.

Folding the third fold over and pinning in place reconstructs the tie.

The whole thing is held together by a basic stitch every 3-4 inches or so. You can see my white thread here.

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Vintage-Haberdashers Blog

Quality vintage menswear

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