A collection of American and European vintage men’s clothing and advertising materials from the Victorian era through the 1950s.

16 comments
  1. Mario said:

    Good start, Pete – now keep ’em coming. Way to go! ;O)
    Mario

  2. Marc Chevalier said:

    Old Fedora Loungers never die; they just start blogs. (Except for me!) This is a good ‘un!

  3. Mario said:

    Hi there Marc! Nice to see meet you here.

  4. You really should start a blog, or a website, Marc – if only to show all those bloody 30s shoes you sold!!!!

  5. Will said:

    Cool stuff you have here.

  6. Marc Chevalier said:

    There’s a real future in this and other, related blogs about vintage menswear. We’ll have to launch a “web ring” that links all of these like-minded blogs to each other in a “loose confederation”.

  7. Marc Chevalier said:

    Thought you might enjoy seeing this, Baron. This “Alexander & Oviatt” suit has interesting details, for those who like to study such things.

    It was purchased in early 1920 by Hollywood actor Douglas Fairbanks Sr. for his European honeymoon trip with Mary Pickford. After their divorce in the ’30s, Pickford kept the suit. When Mary Pickford died, actress Debby Reynolds bought the suit from the Pickford estate, and then sold it at auction in 2003.

    Very recently, a friend of mine acquired the suit from the 2003 auction’s winner. I wish the photos were better, but they were quickly taken ‘in the field’ by an amateur shutterbug.

    Called the “San Gabriel Suit”, this suit was made in Los Angeles from imported British wool. The “San Gabriel” model of jacket was made from 1919 to the mid 1950s, but its details were subtly changed every two or three years. (You’ll notice that the 1921 newspaper ad below shows a ‘newer’ model without roped shoulders.)

    Some interesting details are:

    — a belted back with a row of gathered (shirred) tucks meeting the bottom edge of the shoulder yoke. The back’s center has an inverse box pleat running down vertically from the shoulder yoke to the belt. There is an open center vent.

    — Pronounced roped shoulders.

    — elaborate construction throughout the lining area of the jacket. Linings with multiple types of fabrics (satin, wool hopsack, brushed cotton twill).

    — a very early example of trouser pleating: a single shallow pleat on each side of the trouser’s front.

    • Marc Chevalier said:

      Wild, isn’t it? Too tight on the guy wearing it, but you get the idea. I’m enjoying studying it, since I’m an Oviatt historian.

  8. is it double cloth? Or are the panels individually lined with grey material?

    • Marc Chevalier said:

      The panels are individually lined with grey wool hopsack. The jacket’s hip pockets are reinforced at the “bellows” with grey brushed cotton twill.

  9. Great suit, Marc. Did you buy it? Looks late 30s. Wonderful fabric!

  10. Mario said:

    Yes, the fabric is really amazing. And that price is hard to believe.

  11. Marc Chevalier said:

    This auction was posted twice by the seller. The first time, it ended with one bid, but the winner (“realgonevintage”) backed out after finding some (unreported) light staining at the bottom of the fly.

    Luckily, the seller marked down the price for the second auction. Probably because of the staining.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

Vintage-Haberdashers Blog

Quality vintage menswear